ISCO POST: Travellers' tales

27.10.06

Claire and I are now two weeks or so (I have lost track) into our Trans-Siberian adventures, and having a very great amount of fun. We've survived a cancelled ferry, a flight on the very snug YAK-40 across the Sea of Japan, 4 nights in Vladivostok, rabidly anti-tourist provoditsnas on the so-called "best train in Russia", a highly macho drinking culture, a blizzard, and getting marooned at the most boring village in the world.

Highlights:

The amazing array of ritzy shops on Karl Marx st in Irkutsk (which has been called "the Paris of Siberia" -- and actually does look a bit like Paris, if you squint).

Getting tickets to the ballet at the famous Marinsky Theatre in St Petersburg for next Wednesday night for about $200.

Getting tickets to the ballet at the slightly less famous Ykaterinburg theatre for tonight, for about $6.

Eating smoked omul, a fish which is only found at Lake Baikal.

Our incredible lake and mountain view from our hotel balcony at Listvyanka, Lake Baikal.

A great snowstorm at the same hotel, leaving us snowed in for a day and forced us to do excellent things like take a sauna and get drunk with Russians (OK, that last part was just me).

Lowlights:

Vladivostok (which has never been called the Paris of anywhere, to my knowledge -- although Tom Waits could have been inspired to write a few songs there.

20-year-old soldier boys going on leave and drinking their way across Russia on the train.

The occasional provoditsna who lets you know in no uncertain terms that it is HER train carriage and she won't be bothered with anyone who can't speak Russian.